Faunula

by Anastasia Marchenko

Pocket Ladybug Free amigurumi crochet pattern

Illustration: a crocheted ladybird with a brick-red shell, a brown line down its back and brown spots, and a cocoa-brown head with two short antennae and glossy black eyes, on a weathered wooden plank in front of a sunlit stone wall and green leaves, seen from its front left.
A small crocheted ladybird in brick red with a cocoa-brown head, two glossy black eyes and two short antennae, a brown line down its back and brown spots, seen from the front.
The ladybird standing on an open palm, an arm extending into the frame from the lower left.
A crocheted red ladybird with dark spots sits on damp soil among dew-covered strawberry leaves, next to a ripe strawberry, in soft early light.
Page 1Look inside

A brick-red ladybird sitting low and flat, a smooth dome with a cocoa-brown head resting in front, two short antennae, a dark line down the middle of its back and six round spots.

  • About 6 cm (2¼ in) long
  • Confident beginner
  • 4 pieces
  • About 3 hours
  • 7 languages
  • DK cotton, 3.25 mm hook

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The same pattern laid out for print: numbered pages, and each diagram beside the rounds it explains.

  • In 7 languages details
    • English A4, 15 pages · US Letter, 17 pages
    • Deutsch A4, 17 pages
    • English (UK) A4, 15 pages
    • Español A4, 17 pages
    • Français A4, 17 pages
    • Nederlands A4, 17 pages
    • Українська A4, 16 pages
  • 9 illustrations · 3 diagrams · 15 pages on A4

Made by hand

Photographs of real makes, crocheted from the written pattern.

  • Photograph: the ladybird sitting on red-edged green leaves, seen from the side, its red shell with brown spots and its brown head.
    Made by Anastasia in Círculo Amigurumi cotton on a 3.25 mm hook.
  • Photograph: the ladybird among ivy leaves in a pot, seen from the front, its brown head with two black eyes and the red shell with brown spots behind.
    From the front: the brown head in front of the red shell.
  • Photograph: the ladybird resting on the dark leaves of an orchid, its brown head with black eyes and its red shell with brown spots.
    On an orchid leaf.

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About this amigurumi pattern

How it is made
The dome and its flat base are one continuous spiral, the base set off by a round worked into the back of the stitches and a change of colour. The head, a flattened half-dome joined by its rim, and the antennae are sewn on. The line and the spots are embroidered on the finished body, so the back stays smooth beneath them. There is no wire and no hard part but the safety eyes, and the pattern shows how to embroider the eyes instead.
Skills
  • magic ring
  • spiral rounds
  • increases and invisible decreases
  • a round in back loops only
  • changing colour at the end of a round
  • fitting safety eyes
  • sewing small pieces to a filled body by their open rims
  • chain stitch and satin stitch on the finished body
In the wild
A ladybird's red dome is its front pair of wings, hardened into a case that protects its soft body and the hind wings it flies with.Source: Elytra — UK Beetle Recording

Materials

A 3.25 mm hook and smooth cotton, one strand throughout. Suggested yarn: DROPS Muskat (50 g, 100 m a ball), or any smooth cotton of about 2 to 2.5 m per gram, in shades close to these. A finer yarn makes a smaller ladybird; a worsted or aran yarn on a 3.5 mm hook makes a slightly larger one.

Yarn Used for Buy Uses
A Brick red the dome 1 ball (50 g, 100 m), or a leftover about 9.5 m (5 g)
B Cocoa brown the base, head, antennae, centre line and spots 1 ball (50 g, 100 m), or a leftover about 11 m (5 g)

Try it in other colours →

You will also need:

  • one pair of 5 mm glossy black half-dome safety eyes, with no iris
  • about 5 g polyester toy filling
  • a blunt tapestry needle at least 5 cm long
  • two removable stitch markers, and pins
  • three short scraps of yarn in a contrasting colour, and contrasting sewing thread for a basting line
  • a little black cotton and a little cream cotton, only if you embroider the eyes instead
  • scissors
Overhead view of a brick-red and a cocoa-brown ball of cotton yarn, a hook, two safety eyes with washers, toy filling, a needle, two stitch markers, pins, three scraps of blue yarn, a reel of blue thread and scissors.
Illustration 1Materials and tools. The yarn, the safety eyes with their washers, filling and tools.

Tension and size

About 20 dc and 23 rounds to 10 cm, worked firmly. A dense fabric matters more than the exact figure: filling must not show through it.

The finished ladybird is about 6 cm long from the front of its head to its back edge, about 5 cm wide and about 3 cm tall at the top of its back, and anywhere from 5.5 to 6.5 cm long depending on your yarn and how tightly you work. Change the size with your hook, never by adding or removing rounds: the rounds make the shape.

Check at body R4. Lay the piece flat: it is about 3.7 cm across. Hold a little filling behind the fabric without stretching it. If gaps show, start again with a 3 mm hook; if the fabric is stiff and hard to work, use 3.5 mm.

A small crocheted ladybird in brick red with a cocoa-brown head, two glossy black eyes and two short antennae, a brown line down its back and brown spots, seen from the front.
Illustration 2The finished ladybird. From the front.
The same ladybird from its left side: a red dome with brown spots and a thin brown edge at the table, its brown head at the front with one antenna standing up.
Illustration 3The ladybird in profile. The low dome on its dark base, the head at the front.

Abbreviations and techniques

Original English pattern, UK crochet terms. If you learned from American patterns, the dc used here is the short stitch with no yarn over before the hook goes in, not the taller American double crochet.

dc
double crochet
st, sts
stitch, stitches
inc
2 dc in one stitch
invdec
invisible decrease
R
round
(30 sts)
the count at the end of the round
[ ] 2 times
work what is inside the brackets that many times.
R8–R9
rounds 8 to 9, each worked the same way.
Magic ring
make a loop with the tail behind the working yarn, insert the hook, pull up the working yarn and work 1 chain (not counted). Work the first round over the loop and the tail, then pull the tail to close the ring.
Spiral rounds
no joining and no turning. Mark the first stitch of each round and move the marker up as each round begins.
Changing colour
work the last stitch of the round until two loops are left on the hook, drop the old colour to the inside of the piece, yarn over with the new colour and pull it through both loops. The small step where the colours meet sits at the start of the round, at the back.
Holding the loop
when the pattern stops mid-body, slip the loop from your hook onto a spare stitch marker so nothing unravels, and put it back on the hook to carry on.
Back loops only
insert the hook under the back loop of each stitch only, the loop farther from you. The front loops you skip stay on the outside as a ridge.
Invisible decrease (invdec)
insert the hook under the front loop only of each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through the 2 loops on the hook.
Safety eyes
the post goes through the fabric from the outside, between two stitches; the washer is pressed onto the post from the inside, ridged side towards the fabric, until it clicks. Once the washer is on it does not come off again, so every eye is placed and looked at before its washer goes on.
Fasten off and secure
cut the stated tail and pull it through the last loop. Pass it through the backs of at least five stitches on the inside, back through three, and trim.

Order of work. Make the head and the two antennae at any time. The basting line goes in at the R10 pause, while you can still see both sides of the stitches, and the body is filled at the R13 pause. The eyes go into the head before it is filled. Everything else goes onto the closed body: the head, the antennae, the centre line and the spots.

Body — make 1

Yarn A Brick red B Cocoa brown

Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.

  1. R1A6 dc in the magic ring.6 sts
  2. R2Ainc 6.12 sts
  3. R3A[dc, inc] 6 times.18 sts
  4. R4Adc, [inc, dc 2] 5 times, inc, dc.24 sts
  5. R5Adc 24.24 sts
  6. R6Adc 4, inc, [dc 7, inc] 2 times, dc 3.27 sts
  7. R7Adc 8, inc, dc 9, inc, dc 7, inc.30 sts
  8. R8–R9Adc 30.30 sts

Next round: finish its last stitch in B, leaving a 10 cm tail of B inside the dome (Changing colour).

  1. R10Adc 30.30 sts

Slip the loop on your hook onto a spare stitch marker so it cannot unravel while you mark the dome. Mark the front and the back: counting the marked first stitch of R10 as 1, tie a short scrap of contrasting yarn through its 16th stitch. That stitch is the front centre, F. Tie a second scrap through the 1st stitch: the back centre. The first stitches of the rounds, and the colour change, run down the back. Lay the basting line now (Assembly step A), while you can still see the stitches from both sides. Next round: work it in back loops only. The front loops left unworked make a ridge around the outside, and the fabric turns in to become the base.

  1. R11Bdc 30 (back loops only).30 sts

Cut A, leaving a 10 cm tail, and knot it to the starting tail of B inside the dome; trim both to 3 cm.

  1. R12B[dc 3, invdec] 6 times.24 sts
  2. R13Bdc, [invdec, dc 2] 5 times, invdec, dc.18 sts

Stop here and fill the body: firmly, right out to the ridge, so the dome is smooth and round. Then press it base-down on the table for a moment so the base lies flat, and fill no further under it.

  1. R14B[dc, invdec] 6 times.12 sts
  2. R15Binvdec 6.6 sts

Top up the filling through the small opening so the dome is firm and the base stays flat. Fasten off, leaving a 25 cm tail. Thread the tail through the front loop of each of the six R15 stitches in order, pull to close the hole, make one small stitch across the closure and bury the tail inside the body. R1 is the top of the back; R15 closes the middle of the base.

Head — make 1

Yarn B Cocoa brown

Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.

  1. R1B6 dc in the magic ring.6 sts
  2. R2Binc 6.12 sts
  3. R3B[dc, inc] 6 times.18 sts
  4. R4Bdc 18.18 sts

Mark the top: counting the marked first stitch of R4 as 1, tie a short scrap of contrasting yarn through its 10th stitch. That stitch is the top of the head, T; the first stitches of the rounds run along its underside.

Fasten off, leaving a 40 cm tail for sewing. Pull the ring tail tight and weave it in inside the head. Do not fill it yet: the head is filled lightly as it is sewn on. R1 is the middle of the face; the open 18-stitch rim of R4 is sewn to the body. Fit the eyes before sewing (Assembly step B).

Antenna — make 2

Yarn B Cocoa brown

Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.

  1. R1B6 dc in the magic ring.6 sts
  2. R2–R3Bdc 6.6 sts

Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm tail for sewing. Pull the ring tail tight and weave it in inside the antenna. Do not fill it. The closed ring end is the tip; the open 6-stitch rim of R3 is sewn to the head. Make two the same.

Assembly

How positions are given. The first stitch of every round, where the colour changes, runs down the ladybird's back. The front centre, F, is halfway round from it: the stitch the scrap marks on R10, and the line the basting thread follows over the top. F+3 is 3 stitches towards the ladybird's left and F−3 is 3 towards its right. Left and right are always the ladybird's own: seen from the front, its left is on your right. On the head, T is the top: the stitch the scrap marks on its last round, R4. Count from the scraps, the basting thread or the centre line, never from the round marker, which drifts in a spiral. Diagram 1, Assembly order shows what happens at each pause and what waits until the body is closed.

  1. 1Body R1–R10 openThe dome in A from the magic ring to R10 (30 sts), its last stitch finished in B; scraps at F and at the back centre on R10. Make the head and the two antennae at any time.
  2. 2A. Basting line pausedA contrasting thread from the F scrap straight up over the ring and down to the back scrap.
  3. 3Ridge, base, fill, close closedR11 in B in back loops only; R12–R13; filled firm, the base pressed flat on the table; R14–R15, topping up; gather the last 6 and bury the tail.
  4. 4B. Head and eyes openThe head R1–R4 with a scrap at T; the eye posts through R3, the left between T+4 and T+5, the right between T−4 and T−5, no washers; look from the front; washers on.
  5. 5C. Head closedThe basting thread snipped above R5 and pulled out below; the rim pinned from R10 F−2 to F+2 along the bottom, at R8 F−3½ and F+3½ at its sides, and from R5 F−1½ to F+1½ along the top; filled lightly as it is sewn, a flattened half-dome.
  6. 6D. Antennae closedThe open rims pinned on the head's R4, the left at T+2 and the right at T−2; look from the front; sewn; tails buried.
  7. 7E. Centre line closedChain stitch in B beside the basting thread, in two halves from the centre of the ring: down the front to the head's top seam, down the back to the ridge; each half's ends tied at the middle of the base; the basting thread out.
  8. 8F. Spots closedSix pinned, three on the left at R4 F+3, R5 F+6, R4 F+9 and three on the right at R4 F−3, R5 F−6, R4 F−9; looked at from above, the front and each side; each four or five satin stitches in B, in one layer; ends tied and pulled inside.
  9. 9Finish closedRemove the pins and scraps, settle the filling and stand the ladybird on the table.
Diagram 1Assembly order. The basting line goes in at the R10 pause, while both sides of the stitches can be seen; the eyes go into the head while it is an open cup; the head, the antennae, the line and the spots go on the closed, filled body.
  • open — the piece is still open: rounds continue after the step, or its rim is not sewn yet, and the inside can be reached.
  • paused — crochet has stopped with the loop held on a marker; the inside is reachable through the open end.
  • closed — filled and shut; only surface stitches, with ends tied and pulled inside or buried through the fabric.

Finding the rounds. On the body, R1 is the ring at the top of the back and each round is the next ring out; R10 is the last red round, just above the ridge. On the head, R1 is the ring in the middle of the face, and R4, its last round, is the one sewn to the body.

Sewing and embroidery stitches:

  • Rim seam: catch both top loops of a rim stitch of the piece, then a shallow bar of the body stitch under it without going through to the inside, and go round the whole rim. Pull until the surfaces just touch.
  • Bury a tail: needle into the body at the seam and out 3 cm away, tug so the end disappears, go back through a nearby stitch and trim flush.
  • Chain stitch: bring the needle up at the start, go back down into the same hole and up again one round along, with the thread looped under the point of the needle, and pull until the loop lies flat. Start each new stitch inside the loop of the last one. Finish with a small straight stitch over the last loop.
  • Satin stitch: straight stitches laid side by side, each from one edge of the shape to the other, close enough that no fabric shows between them. Pull each one until it lies flat without denting the fabric.
  • Ends on the closed body: go in at a gap away from the stitching, leaving a 10 cm end, and come up where the stitching starts. When it is done, go down at its end and out through the same gap. Tie the two ends with a double knot, pull gently so the knot slips inside, and trim.

The diagrams are flat drawings of a curved, filled surface: place, pin and look before you fix anything.

A. Basting line (at the R10 pause)

Hold the dome with the ring on top and the F scrap towards you. The dome is still open, so you can see its stitches from inside and out. Diagram 2, Head and spot placement map shows the line from above.

R4 F+3 R5 F+6 R4 F+9 R4 F−3 R5 F−6 R4 F−9 R2 R4 R6 R8 F — scrap on R10 back centre — scrap on R10 head Seen from above front towards you, its left on your right about 3 cm head top the ridge and the base, in B Side view, the ladybird's left front to the left
Diagram 2Head and spot placement map. Each ring is one round of the dome, divided into its own stitches, from the ring at the top of the back out to R10. F, the front centre, is at the bottom and the back centre, where the rounds begin, at the top; the ladybird's left is on your right. The side view shows where the same head, antenna and spots sit on the filled dome. A flat drawing of a curved surface: pin and look before you sew or stitch.
  • Head — its rim sewn all round the dotted line: the bottom along R10 from F−2 to F+2, the sides on R8 between F+3 and F+4 and between F−3 and F−4, the top along R5 from between F−1 and F−2 to between F+1 and F+2; the head's top scrap at R5 F, its first stitch at R10 F.
  • Centre line — in B, from the middle of the head's upper seam, along the basting line, through the centre of the ring and down the back to R10, just above the ridge.
  • Spots — six, about 7 mm across, centred on R4 F+3 and F−3, R5 F+6 and F−6, R4 F+9 and F−9 (3 stitches from the line at the back).
  • F and the back centre — the scraps on R10: its 16th stitch and its 1st.
  1. Thread a needle with contrasting sewing thread. Start at the F scrap on R10 and run the thread straight up to the ring, in and out every round or two, through the middle of the ring, and straight down the other side to the scrap at the back centre.
  2. Leave both ends of the thread long.
  3. Put the loop back on your hook and carry on with R11.

The thread splits the dome into two equal halves, and the colour change sits right under its back end. If it wanders towards one side, pull it out and lay it again.

B. Head and eyes (before the head is filled)

Hold the head with its open rim away from you and the scrap at the top. Diagram 3, Head map shows the rings, both eye positions and where the antennae go later.

Seen from above, a small brown crocheted dome with two black safety eyes, a blue yarn scrap tied at its top edge and a long brown yarn tail.
Illustration 4The head with its eyes. From above: still an open cup resting on its rim, both eyes pushed in, the scrap at its top.
Left eye Right eye
Post R3, between T+4 and T+5 R3, between T−4 and T−5
R1 R2 R3 R4 T — scrap on R4 underside: the rounds' first stitches left eye R3, between T+4 and T+5 left antenna rim centred on R4 T+2 right eye R3, between T−4 and T−5 right antenna rim centred on R4 T−2 Head, seen from the front the ladybird's left on your right
Diagram 3Head map. Each ring is one round of the head, divided into its own stitches. T, the top of the head, is straight up, on the line from the centre of the ring through the scrap on R4; the ladybird's left is on your right. The eyes go in while the head is still an open cup; the antennae go on after the head is sewn to the body. A flat drawing of a cup that domes once filled: push the posts in and look before the washers go on.
  • Eyes — 5 mm, each post in a gap on R3, level with the middle of the ring: between T+4 and T+5 for the left eye, T−4 and T−5 for the right.
  • Sewn edges — each antenna's open rim, centred on R4 T+2 (left) and R4 T−2 (right); and the head's own rim, R4, sewn to the body.
  • T — the top of the head: the scrap tied through the 10th stitch of R4, and the line from it to the centre of the ring.
  1. Find T on R3: it is the R3 stitch on the line from the centre of the ring to the scrap. Count 4 stitches towards the ladybird's left (your right) and push an eye's post through the gap just past the fourth stitch, from the outside, without its washer.
  2. Place the other eye the same way on the other side. Look at the head from the front: both eyes level with the centre of the ring and the same distance from it. Move a post one gap if they are not.
  3. Press both washers on from the inside.

The eyes sit wide apart, level with the middle of the face.

If you would rather have no plastic parts, embroider the eyes instead: before the head is filled, with black cotton, work small straight stitches over the same gap, one over another, until a round dot about 5 mm across stands. Then, with cream cotton, work one straight stitch about 4 mm long close along the lower outer edge of each dot, so the eyes show on the dark head. Knot the ends inside the head.

C. Head (after the body is closed)

The head is sewn on all round its open rim, low on the front of the body so that it rests on the table, the rim pressed a little wider than it is tall. It is a flattened half-dome whose edge lies against the body, not a ball set in front of it. Diagram 2, Head and spot placement map shows where the rim goes from above, and the head from the side.

A plain red crocheted dome with a brown head pinned low to its front by pins through the head's edge, and a blue thread running over the top.
Illustration 5The head pinned in place. Held low against the front with pins through its edge; the basting thread runs over the top.
Middle Left Right
Top of the rim R5 F (the head's scrap) R5, between F+1 and F+2 R5, between F−1 and F−2
Sides of the rim — R8, between F+3 and F+4 R8, between F−3 and F−4
Bottom of the rim R10 F (the F scrap; the head's first stitch) R10 F+2 R10 F−2
  1. Find R5 at the front by counting 5 rings out from the ring along the basting thread. Snip the basting thread just above R5 and pull out the part between R5 and R10. Leave the F scrap in.
  2. Put a little filling into the head. Press its rim a little wider than it is tall, with the scrap at the top and the rim's first stitch, halfway round from the scrap, at the bottom.
  3. Pin the rim's top at R5 F and its bottom at the F scrap on R10, then its sides on R8, between F+3 and F+4 and between F−3 and F−4, then the four corners: on R5 between F+1 and F+2 and between F−1 and F−2, and on R10 at F+2 and F−2. Look from the front: the head is centred on the basting thread, the red dome shows on both sides of it, and its top is below the top of the dome. Look from the side: the head's edge lies against the body all the way round, and the head rests on the table or just above it. Move pins until it does.
  4. Sew the rim with a rim seam, using the head's tail. Before the last few stitches, add a little more filling so the head is gently rounded; keep it low, a flattened half-dome rather than a ball. Bury the tail and take out the F scrap.

The head sits low at the front, a little wider than it is tall, its top below the dome behind it. If its top comes up level with the top of the dome, move the three top pins down one round, to R6, before you sew.

D. Antennae (after the head is on)

Each antenna is sewn on by its open rim to the top of the head, one on each side of the head's scrap. Diagram 3, Head map shows both places.

Left antenna Right antenna
Middle of the rim head R4, T+2 head R4, T−2
  1. The head's scrap marks T on its last round, R4, right in front of the seam. Count 2 stitches along R4 towards the ladybird's left and pin the middle of the left antenna's rim there, the rim flat all the way round; its back edge lies over the seam. The head curves down towards its face, so an antenna pinned flat on it stands up leaning a little forward; if it stands straight up, push the back edge of its rim a little further into the head as you pin.
  2. Pin the right antenna the same way at T−2.
  3. Look from the front: both antennae stand at the same height, one on each side of the middle of the head. Move pins until they do.
  4. Sew each rim all round with a rim seam, using the antenna's tail. Bury the tail through the head into the body. Take out the head's scrap.

The antennae stand up from the top of the head, set wide apart. If one leans over, take one more stitch from its rim into the head on the side it leans away from.

E. Centre line

The line runs from the middle of the head's top seam, over the ring, and down to the ridge at the back, along the basting thread. Work it in two halves that meet at the centre of the ring. Diagram 2, Head and spot placement map shows it from above.

Close view of the red dome with two small round brown embroidered spots and a brown embroidered line running over the top.
Illustration 6Spots and centre line. Satin stitch in one layer, beside the chain-stitched line.
  1. Thread the needle with an arm's length of B. Go in at the middle of the base, leaving a 10 cm end, push the needle straight up through the filling and bring it out at the centre of the ring on top.
  2. Work chain stitch down the front along the basting thread, one chain to each round, beside the thread and not through it, to the middle of the head's top seam. Finish with a small stitch over the last loop.
  3. Go down there and straight back through the filling to the middle of the base, out at the place you went in. Tie the two ends with a double knot, pull gently so the knot slips inside, and trim.
  4. Work the back half the same way: from the middle of the base up to the centre of the ring, chain stitch down the back along the basting thread to R10, just above the ridge, and back through the filling to the middle of the base.
  5. Pull out the basting thread.

The line runs unbroken from the head over the top to the back edge and parts the dome into two equal halves. If a stretch wanders, undo it back to there and work it again before you tie the ends.

F. Spots

Six small spots, three on each side of the centre line, each four or five satin stitches, about 7 mm across. Diagram 2, Head and spot placement map shows all six.

The ladybird from its left side with one brown embroidered spot finished and a second spot half laid in satin stitch, a threaded needle at its edge.
Illustration 7A spot in progress. One spot finished; the next half laid, four or five satin stitches side by side.
Left side Right side
Front spot R4 F+3 R4 F−3
Middle spot R5 F+6 R5 F−6
Rear spot R4 F+9, 3 stitches from the line at the back R4 F−9, 3 stitches from the line at the back
  1. Count each position along its round from the centre line and put a pin in its stitch: three pins on the left, three on the right.
  2. Look from above: the six pins make two matching arcs, one on each side of the line. Look from the front and from each side: the front pins sit above the head's corners, clear of its seam. Move a pin one stitch if a pair does not match.
  3. Thread the needle with an arm's length of B. For the first spot, go in through a gap at the ridge below it, leaving a 10 cm end, and come up just above the pinned stitch.
  4. Work four or five satin stitches over the pinned stitch, running along the round and laid one below the other: the middle ones about 7 mm long, the first and the last a little shorter, so the spot comes out round. Keep them in one layer, with nothing under them: an outline or padding under a spot this small rises into a bump.
  5. Take the needle out through the same gap at the ridge, tie the two ends, pull the knot inside and trim. Take out the pin, and work the other five spots the same way.

The six spots are small, round and flat, in two matching arcs on either side of the line. If a spot comes out lopsided, add one short stitch along its flat edge.

Finishing

Remove any pins and scraps. Press the ladybird gently base-down on the table and roll the dome under your palm to settle the filling. Do not block, steam or starch.

Your ladybird should stand low and steady on its flat base, its dark head resting on the table in front and the line running over its back between the six spots. If it rocks, press it base-down on the table again and push the filling up into the dome with your fingertips through the fabric.

Care: spot-clean only, and dry flat away from heat.

What is checked

passed

Stitch check: every round's count recomputed from the stitch record

passed

Placement check: every placement checked against the rounds it names

passed

Diagram check: every diagram checked against the same record

1

finished make from the written pattern

3

photos of finished makes

How patterns are made

Using this pattern

The toys you make from this pattern are yours to keep, give or sell. The pattern itself is for your personal use: please do not share, copy or resell it.

Safety

This pattern uses plastic safety eyes, which are not suitable for toys for children under three. If you would rather have no plastic parts, embroider the eyes instead.

Not for children under three. A handmade toy has not been safety-tested, so sew every part on firmly, and check the seams and stuffing before you give it to a child and every so often after.

Illustrations are generated previews. Your finished piece will differ with yarn, hook, tension and stuffing. © 2026 Anastasia Marchenko