by Anastasia Marchenko
Pocket Frog Free amigurumi crochet pattern
A calm green frog sitting upright, its eyes perched on two small cups on top of its head, with a short stitched mouth, bent hind legs at its sides and two small front arms.
- About 4.5 cm (1¾ in) tall
- Confident beginner
- 7 pieces
- About 3 hours
- 7 languages
- DK cotton, 3.25 mm hook
Free pattern
Free
Every round and every diagram is here on the page, free to read with no sign-up.
Prefer paper? The printable PDF
The same pattern laid out for print: numbered pages, and each diagram beside the rounds it explains.
In 7 languages details
- English A4, 13 pages · US Letter, 14 pages
- Deutsch A4, 14 pages
- English (UK) A4, 13 pages
- Español A4, 14 pages
- Français A4, 14 pages
- Nederlands A4, 14 pages
- Українська A4, 14 pages
- 8 illustrations · 3 diagrams · 13 pages on A4
Made by hand
Photographs of real makes, crocheted from the written pattern.
Made by Anastasia in Círculo Amigurumi cotton on a 3.25 mm hook. 
The same counts worked in a lofted plush yarn, beside the cotton one. Outside the pattern's yarn class, and not a substitution it offers: the toy comes out two thirds taller. 
Made by @fflianay, the first frog from outside the studio.
Free coloring pages
Pocket Frog to color by number, with answers and a gift card. Print at home, no sign-up.
US Letter · 6 pages · also in A4
About this amigurumi pattern
- How it is made
- One continuous spiral makes the head and body together, from the crown down to the flat base it sits on. The eye cups, the hind legs and the arms are small pieces sewn on. There is no wire and no hard part but the safety eyes, and the pattern shows how to embroider the eyes instead if you would rather have no plastic in the toy.
- Who it is for
- The most sewing of the eight friends: keep it for last, or make it first because you want a frog.
- Skills
- magic ring
- spiral rounds
- increases and invisible decreases
- very small pieces on a six-stitch ring
- fitting safety eyes
- sewing small stuffed pieces to a stuffed body
- one embroidery stitch for the mouth
- In the wild
- A frog's large eyes are set far apart and bulge out of its head, which gives it an almost all-round view of its surroundings.Source: All About Frogs — Burke Museum
Materials
A 3.25 mm hook and smooth cotton, one strand throughout. Suggested yarn: DROPS Muskat (50 g, 100 m a ball), or any smooth cotton of about 2 to 2.5 m per gram, in a shade close to this one. A finer yarn makes a smaller frog; a worsted or aran yarn on a 3.5 mm hook makes a slightly larger one.
| Yarn | Used for | Buy | Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| A Leaf green | body, eye cups, arms and hind legs | 1 ball (50 g, 100 m) | about 23 m (10 g) |
| B Black | the mouth | a small amount | about 0.5 m |
You will also need:
- one pair of 6 mm black safety eyes
- about 5 g polyester toy filling
- a blunt tapestry needle
- a removable stitch marker and pins
- a short scrap of yarn in a contrasting colour, and contrasting sewing thread for a basting line
- scissors
Gauge and size
About 20 sc and 23 rounds to 10 cm, worked firmly. A dense fabric matters more than the exact figure: filling must not show through it.
The finished frog is about 4.5 cm from the table to the top of the eye cups, and up to 5 cm depending on your yarn and tension. Change the size with your hook, never by adding or removing rounds: the rounds make the shape.
Check at body R7. Hold a little filling behind the fabric without stretching it. If gaps show, start again with a 3 mm hook; if the fabric is stiff and hard to work, use 3.5 mm.
Abbreviations and techniques
US crochet terms.
- ch
- chain
- sc
- single crochet
- st, sts
- stitch, stitches
- inc
- 2 sc in one stitch
- invdec
- invisible decrease
- R
- round
- (12 sts)
- the count at the end of the round
- [ ] 6 times
- work what is inside the brackets that many times.
- R8–R11
- rounds 8 to 11, each worked the same way.
- Magic ring
- make a loop with the tail behind the working yarn, insert the hook, pull up the working yarn and ch 1 (not counted). Work the first round over the loop and the tail, then pull the tail to close the ring.
- Spiral rounds
- no joining and no turning. Mark the first stitch of each round and move the marker up as each round begins.
- Invisible decrease (invdec)
- insert the hook under the front loop only of each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through the 2 loops on the hook.
- Safety eyes
- the post goes through the fabric from the outside, between two stitches; the washer is pressed onto the post from the inside, ridged side toward the fabric, until it clicks. Once the washer is on it does not come off again, so every eye is pinned and looked at before its washer goes on.
- Fasten off and secure
- cut the stated tail and pull it through the last loop. Pass it through the backs of at least five stitches on the inside, back through three, and trim.
Each piece is one colour. The mouth uses one full strand of B.
Order of work. Make the two eye cups before you reach R12 of the body: the face goes on at that pause, while the bottom is still open. The arms and hind legs can wait until the body is closed.
Body, one piece from the crown to the base — make 1
Yarn A Leaf green
Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.
- R1A6 sc in the magic ring.6 sts
- R2Ainc 6.12 sts
- R3A[sc, inc] 6 times.18 sts
- R4Asc, [inc, sc 2] 5 times, inc, sc.24 sts
- R5Asc 24.24 sts
- R6Asc 24.24 sts
Mark the last stitch of this round with a short scrap of contrasting yarn: it is the front centre, F, and every placement in the assembly pages is counted from it. Leave the scrap in until the basting line is laid in Assembly step A.
- R7A[sc 3, inc] 6 times.30 sts
- R8–R11Asc 30.30 sts
- R12Asc 30.30 sts
Stop here. The bottom is still open, and the face is finished through it before the body closes: lay the basting line and stuff the top of the body lightly (Assembly step A), sew on both eye cups (step B) and embroider the mouth (step C), securing every end inside. Then stuff the body firmly and continue with R13.
- R13A[sc 3, invdec] 6 times.24 sts
- R14Asc, [invdec, sc 2] 5 times, invdec, sc.18 sts
- R15A[sc, invdec] 6 times.12 sts
- R16Ainvdec 6.6 sts
Top up the filling so the body is firm and the base is flat, then fasten off, leaving a 25 cm tail. Thread the tail through the front loop of each of the six R16 stitches in order, pull to close the hole, make one small stitch across the closure, and bury the tail inside the body. R1 is the crown; R13–R16 lie flat and are the underside the frog sits on.
Eye cups — make 2
Yarn A Leaf green
Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.
- R1A6 sc in the magic ring.6 sts
- R2Ainc 6.12 sts
- R3Asc 12.12 sts
Fasten off, leaving a 30 cm tail for sewing. Secure the ring tail inside. The piece is a shallow cup: R1 is its top, the open 12-stitch R3 rim is sewn to the head. Before sewing, push the post of a 6 mm safety eye through the cup from the outside between two stitches of R2, on the side of the cup that will face forward once it is sewn, and press the washer on from the inside only after the pinning check in Assembly step B. Put a pinch of filling into the cup just before its rim is sewn down.
Hind legs (haunches) — make 2
Yarn A Leaf green
Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.
- R1A6 sc in the magic ring.6 sts
- R2Ainc 6.12 sts
- R3Asc 12.12 sts
- R4A[sc 2, invdec] 3 times.9 sts
- R5Asc 9.9 sts
- R6A[sc, invdec] 3 times.6 sts
Stuff lightly, so the piece is soft and can be pressed flat against the body, then fasten off, leaving a 30 cm tail for sewing. Thread the tail through the front loop of each of the six R6 stitches and pull to close. The closed R6 end is the narrow foot end; the R1 end is the broad thigh end. Secure the ring tail inside.
Front arms — make 2
Yarn A Leaf green
Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.
- R1A6 sc in the magic ring.6 sts
- R2–R5Asc 6.6 sts
Fasten off, leaving a 30 cm tail for sewing. Do not stuff. The closed R1 end is the hand; the open 6-stitch R5 rim is the root that is sewn to the chest. Secure the ring tail inside the tube.
Assembly
How positions are given. A contrasting basting thread runs straight down the front of the body. On any round, F is the stitch the thread passes through; F+3 is 3 stitches toward the frog's left and F−3 is 3 toward its right. Left and right are always the frog's own: seen from the front, its left is on your right. Count along the round from the thread, never from the round marker, which drifts in a spiral. Diagram 1, Assembly order shows what happens at the R12 pause and what waits until the body is closed.
- 1Body R1–R12 openCrown ring down to R12 (30 sts); the scrap marks F at the end of R6. Make the two eye cups meanwhile.
- 2A. Basting line pausedRun the basting thread from the crown down through the marked R6 stitch; fill the top lightly.
- 3B. Eye cups pausedEyes fitted to the cups, no washers; both cups pinned centred on R4 F±3; look from the front and above; washers on; a pinch of filling; rims sewn; tails inside through the open bottom.
- 4C. Mouth pausedOne straight stitch in B along the top edge of R9 from F−1½ to F+1½; ends tied inside.
- 5Body R13–R16, close closedFill firmly from the bottom, base flat; four decrease rounds form the underside; gather the last 6 and bury the tail.
- 6D. Arms closedBoth roots pressed flat and pinned along R10 from F±1 to F±4, tubes down and forward; both hands on the table with the base flat; rims sewn; tails buried.
- 7E. Hind legs closedBoth legs pinned along the flank, R8 F±10 to R13 F±5; base, tips and hands touch together; sewn along the contact line; tails buried.
- 8Finish closedRemove the pins and the basting thread, settle the filling and sit the frog up.
- open — the body is in progress and rounds continue after the step.
- paused — crochet has stopped at R12; the inside is reachable through the open bottom.
- closed — stuffed and shut; only sewing that stays on the surface, with tails buried through the fabric.
Finding the rounds. The scrap of yarn marks the last stitch of R6; the basting thread passes through it. R7 is the increase round just below it. Counting down from R7: R8 is the first plain round, R9 the second, R10 the third, R11 the fourth, R12 the fifth and last before the decreases, and R13 is the first decrease round, at the edge of the flat base. Counting up from the marked stitch: R4 is two rounds above it and R2 four.
Sewing stitches:
- Rim seam: for a piece sewn on by its open rim, catch both top loops of a rim stitch, then a shallow bar of the body stitch under it without going through to the inside, and go round the whole rim, one body stitch per rim stitch. Pull until the surfaces just touch.
- Surface stitch: catch a stitch of the small piece, then a shallow bar of the named body stitch. Pull until the surfaces just touch.
- Bury a tail: needle into the body at the seam and out 3 cm away, tug so the end disappears, go back through a nearby stitch and trim flush.
The diagrams are flat drawings of a curved, stuffed surface: pin and look before you sew.
A. Basting line and light filling (at the R12 pause)
Hold the body crown up with the marked stitch toward you. Run the basting thread from the crown straight down through the marked stitch to the R12 edge, and leave it in. Put a little filling into the top so the head holds its shape while you work on it; do not fill the body yet.
B. Eye cups (at the R12 pause)
- Left eye cup — rim circle centred on R4 F+3: top R2 F+2, bottom R6 F+3, inner R4 F+1, outer R4 F+5. Right cup: the same with the offsets negated. The 6 mm eye sits on the cup, facing forward and a little outward.
- Mouth — one straight stitch in B along the top edge of R9, F−1½ to F+1½: from the gap between F−2 and F−1 to the gap between F+1 and F+2. F is the basting thread through the stitch marked at the end of R6; seen from above the cups sit about 45° each side of it.
Each cup is a shallow dome sewn on by its open rim, with its eye already in place. Diagram 2, Head map shows both cups and the mouth on the head.
| Left cup | Right cup | |
|---|---|---|
| Rim centre | R4 F+3 | R4 F−3 |
| Rim, top point | R2 F+2 | R2 F−2 |
| Rim, bottom point | R6 F+3 | R6 F−3 |
| Rim, inner and outer points | R4 F+1 and R4 F+5 | R4 F−1 and R4 F−5 |
| Eye | on the cup, facing forward and a little outward | the same |
- Push each eye's post through its cup from the outside between two stitches of R2 of the cup, without the washer. Turn the cup so the eye faces forward and a little outward, and pin the rim centred on R4 F+3 or F−3, its top point at R2 and its bottom point at R6.
- Pin the other cup the same way before sewing either. Look from the front and from above: both cups at one height, both eyes level, the two cups the same small distance from the basting thread. Move pins until they are.
- Lift each cup off its pins, press its washer on from inside the cup, and pin the cup back exactly where it was. Put a pinch of filling into each cup.
- Sew each rim round with a rim seam using the cup's tail, then bring the tail inside the body through the open bottom and secure it.
From the front, the two cups almost meet above the face, and the eyes look forward from their outer slopes. If a cup stands proud on one side, take a few more surface stitches around that side of the rim.
If you would rather have no plastic parts, embroider the eyes instead: before sewing each cup on, work small straight stitches in B over the same R2 stitch of the cup, one over another, until a round dot about 6 mm across stands, and secure the ends inside the cup.
C. Mouth (at the R12 pause)
One straight stitch in B along the top edge of R9, about 3 stitches wide and centred on the basting thread: from the gap between F−1 and F−2 to the gap between F+1 and F+2.
- Knot the end of B inside the body and bring the needle out at the top edge of R9 in the gap between F−1 and F−2, a stitch and a half to the frog's right of the basting thread.
- Go in at the top edge of R9 in the gap between F+1 and F+2, a stitch and a half to the frog's left of the basting thread. Pull the stitch just snug so it lies straight across the face, then knot it inside.
- Secure both ends inside. Fill the body firmly from the bottom, pressing the base flat, and carry on with R13.
The mouth is a short level line a little below the cups, about 1.3 cm wide: a little under half the distance between the centres of the two eyes.
D. Arms (after the body is closed)
- Left arm — the root pressed flat into an oval along R10, its inner fold on F+1 and its outer fold on F+4, its middle between F+2 and F+3. The tube hangs down and forward, the hand free on the table.
- Left hind leg — sewn along its contact line R8 F+10 → R10 F+8 → R12 F+6 → R13 F+5: broad ring end up and back, closed narrow end forward and down to the table.
- Right arm and leg: the same rounds with the offsets negated (R10 F−1 to F−4; R8 F−10 → R13 F−5).
- Side view: the pose the positions are meant to give.
Each arm is a thin tube sewn to the chest by its open root, hand end down. The root is pressed flat into a short oval that lies along R10, its top edge one round below the mouth, close to the basting thread.
| Left arm | Right arm | |
|---|---|---|
| Root, inner end | R10 F+1 | R10 F−1 |
| Root, outer end | R10 F+4 | R10 F−4 |
| Root, middle | between F+2 and F+3 | between F−2 and F−3 |
| Hand rests | on the table, straight in front of the root | the same |
- Press each root flat, so its six stitches lie in two layers of three, one layer above the other, with a fold at each end. Pin it along R10, the edge of the upper layer on the upper edge of R10 and the edge of the lower layer on its lower edge, the inner fold on F+1 or F−1 and the outer fold on F+4 or F−4, the tube angled down and forward so the hand lies on the table. The two inner folds sit two stitches apart, with F between them.
- Pin both arms before sewing either. Sit the frog on a hard, level table: both hands should touch the table with the base flat. If one does not, move that root one round lower.
- Sew each root down with a rim seam, starting at the inner fold: the three stitches of the upper layer along the upper edge of R10, one over each of the three gaps from F+1 to F+4 (F−1 to F−4 on the right arm), then the three of the lower layer back along its lower edge over the same gaps. Bury the tails.
E. Hind legs (after the body is closed)
Each hind leg lies along the flank as a teardrop: the broad ring end up and a little back, the narrow closed end forward and down to the table. Diagram 3, Arm and hind-leg placement map shows both arms and both hind legs on the body.
| Left leg | Right leg | |
|---|---|---|
| Broad end, its centre | R8 F+10 | R8 F−10 |
| Side, middle | R10 F+8 | R10 F−8 |
| Narrow end | R12 F+6 | R12 F−6 |
| Tip touches the table at | R13 F+5 | R13 F−5 |
- Pin each leg along the flank at the four positions, the side that touches the body flattened against it.
- Pin both legs before sewing either. Sit the frog on the table: the base, both leg tips and both hands should touch together. A leg that lifts the base is pinned one stitch higher, not filled harder.
- Sew each leg along its contact line from the broad end to the tip with surface stitches, about one every stitch. Bury the tails.
Seen from the side, each leg reads as a bent knee: high at the back, touching the table at the front.
Finishing
Remove the pins and the basting thread. Roll the body gently between your palms to settle the filling, press the base flat on the table and sit the frog up. Do not block, steam or starch.
Your frog should sit on its own, wider than it is tall, its two eyes looking forward from the top of its head, hands and feet on the table.
Care: spot-clean only, and dry flat away from heat.
What is checked
passed
Stitch check: every round's count recomputed from the stitch record
passed
Placement check: every placement checked against the rounds it names
passed
Diagram check: every diagram checked against the same record
4
finished makes from the written pattern
3
photos of finished makes
Using this pattern
The toys you make from this pattern are yours to keep, give or sell. The pattern itself is for your personal use: please do not share, copy or resell it.
Safety
This pattern uses plastic safety eyes, which are not suitable for toys for children under three. If you would rather have no plastic parts, embroider the eyes instead.
Not for children under three. A handmade toy has not been safety-tested, so sew every part on firmly, and check the seams and stuffing before you give it to a child and every so often after.
Illustrations are generated previews. Your finished piece will differ with yarn, hook, tension and stuffing. © 2026 Anastasia Marchenko