Faunula

by Anastasia Marchenko

Pocket Field Mouse Free amigurumi crochet pattern

Illustration: a taupe crocheted field mouse lying along a weathered wooden plank in front of a sunlit stone wall and green leaves, seen from its front right, with two big round dusty-pink ears, glossy black eyes, a cream muzzle with a black nose and a pink tail behind.
A small crocheted mouse facing the camera: a blunt snout with a cream tip and a dark stitched nose, a glossy black eye on each upper side of the head, two big round dusty-pink ears a little apart above, the taupe body behind and the pink tail curving away.
The finished mouse lying in the middle of an open palm with bare skin all round it, its pink tail along the palm, an arm extending into the frame from the lower left.
A crocheted field mouse with big pink ears, a cream muzzle and a long pink tail lies on old boards among wheat ears, straw and fallen leaves beside a wooden crate in low golden light.
Page 1Look inside

A mushroom-taupe field mouse lying nose-down, its back rising to a rounded rear, with a pale cream muzzle, a dark nose, two big round dusty-rose ears and a long thin tail trailing behind.

  • About 6 cm (2¼ in) long
  • Confident beginner
  • 4 pieces
  • About 3 hours
  • 7 languages
  • DK cotton, 3.25 mm hook

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The same pattern laid out for print: numbered pages, and each diagram beside the rounds it explains.

  • In 7 languages details
    • English A4, 15 pages · US Letter, 15 pages
    • Deutsch A4, 15 pages
    • English (UK) A4, 15 pages
    • Español A4, 15 pages
    • Français A4, 15 pages
    • Nederlands A4, 15 pages
    • Українська A4, 15 pages
  • 8 illustrations · 3 diagrams · 15 pages

Made by hand

Photographs of real makes, crocheted from the written pattern.

  • Photograph: the field mouse among pussy willow twigs and dried pink grasses, its beige body with two pink ears, a black eye and a dark nose.
    Made by Anastasia in Círculo Amigurumi cotton on a 3.25 mm hook.
  • Photograph: the field mouse on a pale surface beside a small dried yellow flower, its two round pink ears, black eyes and pointed nose, the thin tail behind it.
    The round ears, the pointed nose and the long tail.

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A4 · 6 pages

About this amigurumi pattern

How it is made
The whole body is one continuous spiral begun at the tip of the snout, so the taper is crocheted rather than sewn, and the muzzle is a colour change within the rounds. The ears are flat discs, each pinched into a narrow base before it is sewn on, and the tail is a length of chain with slip stitches worked back along it. There is no wire and no hard part but the safety eyes, and the pattern shows how to embroider them instead.
Skills
  • magic ring
  • spiral rounds
  • increases and invisible decreases
  • changing colour at the end of a round
  • a chain worked back over with slip stitches
  • fitting safety eyes
  • one small satin-stitch nose
  • sewing two flat discs and a cord to a filled body
In the wild
The wood mouse, also called the long-tailed field mouse, has a tail as long as its head and body, and large eyes and ears.Source: Wood (or Long-tailed field) mouse — People's Trust for Endangered Species

Materials

A 3.25 mm hook and smooth cotton, one strand throughout. Suggested yarn: DROPS Muskat (50 g, 100 m a ball), or any smooth cotton of about 2 to 2.5 m per gram, in shades close to these. A finer yarn makes a smaller mouse; a worsted or aran yarn on a 3.5 mm hook makes a slightly larger one.

Yarn Used for Buy Uses
A Mushroom taupe the whole body behind the nose 1 ball (50 g, 100 m), or a leftover about 11 m (5 g)
B Warm cream the snout, as far back as the colour change a leftover of the same weight about 1.5 m
C Dusty rose the two ears and the tail a leftover of the same weight about 4.5 m (2 g)

Try it in other colours →

You will also need:

  • one pair of 5 mm glossy black half-dome safety eyes, with no iris
  • about 3 g polyester toy filling
  • a blunt tapestry needle
  • two removable stitch markers, and pins
  • one short scrap of yarn in a contrasting colour
  • a little black embroidery cotton, for the nose
  • scissors
Seen from above: balls of taupe, cream and dusty-pink cotton, a crochet hook, a pair of small black safety eyes with their washers, a cloud of white filling, a tapestry needle, pins, two stitch markers, a scrap of contrasting yarn, black embroidery cotton and scissors.
Illustration 1What you need. The three cottons, the hook and everything else on the list.

Tension and size

About 20 dc and 23 rounds to 10 cm, worked firmly. A dense fabric matters more than the exact figure: filling must not show through it.

The finished mouse is about 6 cm long from the tip of its nose to the back of its body, about 3 cm tall at the highest point of its back and about 4.5 cm to the tips of its ears, with a tail about 6 cm long lying behind it — as long as the mouse itself; it comes out anywhere from 5.5 to 7 cm long depending on your yarn and how tightly you work. Change the size with your hook, never by adding or removing rounds: the rounds make the shape.

Check at R5. The head is now 18 stitches round, about 2.8 cm across. Hold a little filling behind the fabric without stretching it. If gaps show, start again with a 3 mm hook; if the fabric is stiff and hard to work, use 3.5 mm.

A small crocheted mouse facing the camera: a blunt snout with a cream tip and a dark stitched nose, a glossy black eye on each upper side of the head, two big round dusty-pink ears a little apart above, the taupe body behind and the pink tail curving away.
Illustration 3The finished mouse. From the front.
The same mouse in profile from its right: the nose low at the front, the back rising to a rounded rear, the belly flat along the table, one ear standing above the head and the pink tail leaving the top of the rear to lie along the table.
Illustration 4The finished mouse from the side. From the side, lying along the table.

Abbreviations and techniques

Original English pattern, UK crochet terms. If you learned from American patterns, the dc used here is the short stitch with no yarn over before the hook goes in, not the taller American double crochet.

ch
chain
dc
double crochet
ss
slip stitch
st, sts
stitch, stitches
inc
2 dc in one stitch
invdec
invisible decrease
R
round
(18 sts)
the count at the end of the round
[ ] 6 times
work what is inside the brackets that many times.
R6–R8
rounds 6 to 8, each worked the same way.
Magic ring
make a loop with the tail behind the working yarn, insert the hook, pull up the working yarn and ch 1 (not counted). Work the first round over the loop and the tail, then pull the tail to close the ring. Each piece says how long a tail to leave before you start; leave that much, because the ring's tail is pulled tight at the end and then woven in, and on the body it has to last until the nose is embroidered.
Spiral rounds
no joining and no turning. Mark the first stitch of each round and move the marker up as each round begins.
Invisible decrease (invdec)
insert the hook under the front loop only of each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through the 2 loops on the hook.
Slip stitch (ss)
insert the hook, yarn over, and pull the loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on the hook in one movement. It adds almost no height, which is why a row of them turns a loose chain into a firm cord.
A chain's back bump
turn a chain over and a row of little bumps runs along its back, one to a chain. Working into those leaves the chain's two neat top loops showing on the front, so the finished cord is round and even on both sides.
Holding the loop
when the pattern stops mid-body, slip the loop from your hook onto a spare stitch marker so nothing unravels, and put it back on the hook to carry on.
Changing colour
work the last stitch of the round until two loops are left on the hook, drop the old colour to the inside of the piece, yarn over with the new colour and pull it through both loops. Cut the old colour, leaving a short tail to weave in inside the snout.
Keeping the round starts on the belly
the mouse lies on the table, so one side of it is never seen. Keep the first stitch of each round on that underside as you work and the small step where the colours meet, and every join after it, sits where nothing shows.
Safety eyes
the post goes through the fabric from the outside, between two stitches; the washer is pressed onto the post from the inside, ridged side towards the fabric, until it clicks. Once the washer is on it does not come off again, so both eyes are placed and looked at before either washer goes on.
Satin stitch
short straight stitches worked side by side, close enough to cover the fabric under them, until the shape is filled. Keep them lying flat on the surface, with no dimple pulled into the fabric.
Fasten off and secure
cut the stated tail and pull it through the last loop. Pass it through the backs of at least five stitches on the inside, back through three, and trim.

Order of work. The eyes go into R6 while the body is still open and empty, because their washers go on from inside; after the body is closed nothing can reach the inside again. The body is filled through its own opening before it narrows, and the belly is pressed flat on the table while the last two rounds are worked — that is what keeps the mouse from rolling. Make the ears and the tail at any time; the nose, the ears and the tail all go on the closed body. Diagram 1, Assembly order shows what is open at each step.

Body, one piece from the nose to the tail end — make 1

Yarn B Warm cream A Mushroom taupe

Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.

Leave a 20 cm tail before you close the magic ring, and work the first three rounds in Warm Cream. This end is the very tip of the nose, and the whole mouse grows backwards from it in one piece. Keep that starting tail hanging: it is woven into the body at the end, just before the nose is embroidered over it, and by then the body is closed and no more length can be added.

  1. R1B6 dc in the magic ring.6 sts
  2. R2Binc 6.12 sts
  3. R3Bdc 12.12 sts

Change to Mushroom Taupe in the last stitch of this round: work that stitch until two loops are left on the hook, then finish it with Mushroom Taupe. The change falls on a round, so the pale muzzle ends on a clean line all the way round the snout. Keep the first stitch of each round on one side of the piece from here on, and let that side be the underside: it is the side that will lie on the table, so the small step where the colour changes, and every join after it, ends up where nothing shows.

  1. R4Adc 12.12 sts
  2. R5A[dc, inc] 6 times.18 sts

Count 9 stitches on from the first stitch of this round and slip a scrap of contrasting yarn through stitch 10. That stitch is the middle of the mouse's back. The scrap stays in until the ears and the tail are sewn on; every placement below is counted from it, and the line it marks runs straight along the top of the back from the head to the tail end.

  1. R6–R7Adc 18.18 sts
  2. R8Adc 18.18 sts

The eyes go in now, into round 6, while the body is open and empty. First slip the loop from your hook onto the spare stitch marker, so nothing unravels while you work on the face; it goes back on the hook when you carry on with R9. Find the stitch of round 6 that was worked into the scrap's stitch, and count along round 6 from there: the mouse's left eye goes in the gap between the 2nd and 3rd stitch towards its left, the right eye in the gap between the 2nd and 3rd stitch towards its right, so 5 stitches lie between them across the back and the two sit on the upper sides of the head, just behind the snout. Push both posts through from the outside without the washers, stand the piece on the table and look at it from the front and from each side. Move them until they match. Only then press the washers on from the inside; they do not come off again. If you would rather have no plastic parts, embroider the eyes instead: at the same two places, work short parallel stitches in black embroidery cotton, back and forth over one stitch, until a round dot 5 mm across stands proud of the fabric. Knot the ends inside while the piece is still open.

  1. R9A[dc 2, inc] 6 times.24 sts
  2. R10–R13Adc 24.24 sts
  3. R14Adc 24.24 sts

Stuff the mouse now, before the opening starts to narrow. Fill the snout first, pushing small pinches of filling right into the nose with the blunt end of the hook, then work back along the body. Fill it firmly enough that the fabric is smooth and no filling shows between the stitches.

  1. R15A[dc 2, invdec] 6 times.18 sts

Top up the filling through the opening until the back is firm and rounded. Then stand the mouse on the table and press the underside flat with the flat of your hand, so the belly takes a flat face and the mouse sits still instead of rolling. Hold it flat while you work the last two rounds.

  1. R16A[dc, invdec] 6 times.12 sts
  2. R17Ainvdec 6.6 sts

Fasten off, leaving a 15 cm tail. Thread the tail on a needle, pass it through the front loop of each of the six stitches of the last round in order, and pull it tight to close the hole. Push the needle down into the body beside the closed hole, bring it out a few centimetres away, pull gently and cut the end level with the fabric so it disappears inside. The body is finished, firmly stuffed, closed at both ends, with a flat belly and no opening left. Weave the starting tail at the nose inside before the nose is embroidered over it.

Ears — make 2

Yarn C Dusty rose

Start with a magic ring. Work in spiral rounds.

Leave a 10 cm tail before you close the magic ring. Both ears are made the same way; there is no left and right piece.

  1. R1C6 dc in the magic ring.6 sts
  2. R2Cinc 6.12 sts
  3. R3C[dc 3, inc] 3 times.15 sts

Fasten off, leaving a 25 cm tail for sewing. Do not stuff. The ear is a round disc about 2.3 cm across, the same on both faces; pull the ring closed tightly with its starting tail so no hole shows in the middle, then thread that tail through the backs of a few stitches on the back of the disc and trim it. The last round adds three stitches where a flat circle would take six, so the disc is not quite flat: it curls very slightly towards one face, which is the face that will look forward. Make two.

Tail — make 1

Yarn C Dusty rose

Ch 15. Start in chain 2 from the hook, working into each chain's back bump.

The 25 cm tail comes before the chain. Start with a slip knot in Dusty Rose and leave 25 cm hanging before you chain: that end is what sews the tail to the body, and it cannot be added afterwards. Then make the chain above, turn it over so the row of little bumps along its back faces you, and work this row of slip stitches into those bumps. The slip stitches turn the loose chain into a firm round cord that lies on the table instead of curling.

  1. R1Css 14.14 sts

Fasten off, leaving a 10 cm tail. Both loose ends are now at the same end of the cord, and that is the end that gets sewn to the body; the far end is a plain rounded tip and needs nothing done to it. The cord is about 6 cm long, unstuffed, and should lie flat on the table by itself. Do not press or block it.

Assembly

Positions are given from B, the middle of the mouse's back: the stitch your scrap marks on R5, and the straight line that runs from it along the top of the back to the closed tail end. B+3 means three stitches round from that line towards the mouse's left, B−3 three stitches towards its right. Left and right are the mouse's own, not yours: hold it with its nose towards you, as the pictures here are drawn, and its left is on your right.

Seen from above: the stuffed taupe body with its eyes and nose already in, a green marker scrap on its head and no ears or tail on it, two round dusty-pink discs with long sewing ends, and one thin pink cord with both its ends at one end.
Illustration 5The four pieces. Made and laid out before anything is sewn, each with the long end it is sewn on by.

Diagram 1, Assembly order shows which steps happen while the body is open and which after it is closed. Only one step has a deadline — the eyes — and it is the first.

Finding the rounds. R6 is the next round after the one your scrap is in, one round back towards the tail, and R8 is two rounds after that; all three are 18 stitches round. R16 is at the other end: it is the last round before the gathered ring at the tail, and it has 12 stitches.

Sewing stitches:

  • Whip stitch: take the needle through one loop of the body and one loop of the piece, over and over along the seam, in small even stitches. It is what holds an ear's base on.
  • Ladder stitch: take a short stitch in the body, then a short stitch in the piece directly opposite, and pull gently every few stitches so the thread disappears. It is what sews the tail's end down without a visible ridge.
  • Burying an end: push the needle into the body beside the last stitch, bring it out a few centimetres away, pull gently and cut the end level with the fabric so it springs back inside.
  1. 1Body R1–R8 openThe nose in Warm Cream, the colour changed in the last stitch of R3, out to the head's 18 stitches; the scrap through the 10th stitch of R5. Make both ears and the tail at any time.
  2. 2A. Eyes openBoth posts through R6, the left between B+2 and B+3, the right between B−2 and B−3, no washers; look from the front and from each side; then the washers, from inside, while the body is still empty.
  3. 3Body R9–R14, stuffed openR9–R14 (24 sts). Stuff now, snout first, while the opening is still wide: firm enough that no filling shows between the stitches.
  4. 4R15; the belly pressed flat openR15; top up through the opening until the back is firm, then stand the mouse on the table and press the underside flat with your hand. This is what stops it rolling, and it cannot be done later.
  5. 5R16–R17, closed closedThe last two rounds worked while the belly is held flat; the final 6 stitches gathered closed and the tail buried. From here the inside cannot be reached.
  6. 6B. Nose closedThe satin nose at the very tip, over the closed ring and the first round, in the Warm Cream; both thread ends brought out at one place away from the face, tied, and the knot pulled inside.
  7. 7C. Ears closedBoth ears pinched at the base and pinned on R8, the left over B+2 to B+4 and the right over B−2 to B−4; looked at from the front and from above; sewn.
  8. 8D. Tail closedThe cord's doubled end sewn down at R16, B — the middle of the back — so the tail leaves the body high and falls to the table behind it.
  9. 9Finish closedTake out the pins and the scrap, settle the filling with your fingers and lay the mouse down.
Diagram 1Assembly order. The eyes are the one step with a deadline: their washers go on from inside, so they must be in before the stuffing goes past R6 and long before the body closes. The belly is pressed flat while the last rounds are worked, which is what keeps the mouse from rolling. The nose, the ears and the tail all go on the finished, closed body.
  • open — rounds continue after the step, and the inside can still be reached through the opening.
  • closed — stuffed and shut; only surface stitches, with every end buried through the fabric.

A. Eyes (into R6, body open and empty)

R5 R6 R7 R8 B−6 B−4 B−2 B B+2 B+4 B+6 scrap on R5 left eye R6, between B+2 and B+3 right eye R6, between B−2 and B−3 left ear R8, B+2 to B+4 right ear R8, B−2 to B−4 Head, unrolled nose end at the bottom; the mouse's left on your right 13 of each round's 18 stitches; the rest run along the belly
Diagram 2Head map. Each square is one stitch. B is the middle of the back, marked by the scrap on R5; the nose end is at the bottom and the mouse's left is on your right. The eyes go in while the body is still open; the ears are sewn on after it is closed and the scrap comes out last. A flat drawing of a curved back: pin both ears and look from the front and from above before you sew.
  • Eyes — 5 mm, each post through a gap on R6: between B+2 and B+3 for the left eye, B−2 and B−3 for the right, so 5 stitches lie between them across the back.
  • Ear bases — 3 stitches of R8 each, B+2 to B+4 on the left and B−2 to B−4 on the right, with three stitches of back between them.
  • B — the middle of the back: the 10th stitch of each round, counted from the round's first stitch, which runs along the belly.

Hold the head with the scrap on top and the nose pointing towards you, so that the mouse's left is on your right. Both eyes go into round 6, one on each upper side of the head, just behind the snout. Count round R6 from the stitch directly behind the scrap.

Left eye Right eye
Round R6 R6
Post goes in the gap between B+2 and B+3 B−2 and B−3
  1. Push both posts through from the outside, without their washers.
  2. Stand the piece on the table and look at it from the front, then from each side. Five stitches lie between the eyes across the back, and both should be visible together from the front. Move them until the two sit at the same height and the same distance from the snout.
  3. Only then press a washer onto each post from the inside, ridged side towards the fabric, until it clicks.

Diagram 2, Head map draws both gaps and the ear bases together. If you would rather have no plastic parts, embroider the eyes instead: at the same two places, work satin stitch in black embroidery cotton over one stitch, back and forth, until a round dot 5 mm across stands proud of the fabric, and knot the ends inside while the body is still open.

When it is right, the two eyes look at you from the upper sides of the head and the snout runs clear between them.

B. Nose (closed body)

A close view of the mouse's head from the front right: short parallel stitches of near-black thread filling a small rounded shape at the tip of the cream snout, the cream rounds circling it, a glossy black eye and the bases of the two pink ears.
Illustration 6The face close up. The nose, worked in satin stitch over the tip of the cream muzzle.

Hold the mouse with its nose towards you. The nose is a small satin patch over the closed magic ring at the very tip and the first round around it, in black embroidery cotton — all of it inside the cream, well short of the line where the cream meets the taupe.

  1. Bring the needle out at the tip, leaving a 10 cm tail hanging outside.
  2. Work satin stitch across the tip, back and forth, until a rounded patch about 6 mm across is filled. Keep the stitches flat: if the tip dimples, the thread is too tight.
  3. Bring the needle out again a few centimetres away, under the chin where nothing shows. Tie the two ends together, pull the knot gently until it slips inside the fabric, and trim.

When it is right, the nose is a small dark rounded patch on the blunt end of the snout, sitting on the cream and not on the taupe.

C. Ears (on R8, closed body)

The ear, flat 15 stitches round the edge, about 2.3 cm across 3 edge stitches are the base the rest of the edge stays free the head at R8 sewn base, pinched flat the ear cups forward The same ear, sewn, from the side pinch the base before you sew, not after
Diagram 3Ear seam. The ear is a flat disc of 15 edge stitches. Pinch it across the base so that 3 of those edge stitches lie side by side, and sew just those to the 3 head stitches the pattern names on R8; the rest of the edge stays free and the ear cups forward on its own. Pin both ears and look from the front and from above before either is sewn — this is the step that decides whether the two match.
  • Sewn — the 3 edge stitches of the ear that are stitched to the head.
  • Dusty Rose — the ear, the same on both faces, unstuffed.
  • Mushroom Taupe — the head.

Each ear is a flat disc. Pinch it across the base so that three of its edge stitches lie side by side, and sew only those three to the head; the rest of the edge stays free and the ear cups forward on its own. Diagram 3, Ear seam shows which part of the edge that is.

The closed mouse body seen from the front, without its tail, both dusty-pink ears standing a little apart on the crown, each held by a pin whose head rests inside the ear's hollow, a green marker scrap on the top of the head between the ears and the ears' long sewing ends running away.
Illustration 7Both ears pinned. Pinned, each through its own ear, and not yet sewn: look now, before either is stitched down.
Left ear Right ear
Round R8 R8
Base covers B+2, B+3, B+4 B−2, B−3, B−4
  1. Pinch both ears at the base and pin them in place, each starting two stitches out from the scrap's line, so that three stitches of the back lie between the two bases.
  2. Look from the front, then from directly above, then from each side. The two should stand at the same height and lean out by the same amount. This is the step that decides whether the pair matches, so move them until it does.
  3. Whip stitch each base down through both layers of the pinch, taking the needle through one loop of the head and one of the ear. Bury both ends inside the head.

When it is right, the two ears stand up on the crown two rounds behind the eyes, a little apart, each cupping forward. If one leans further out than the other, take out three or four stitches on its outer side and pull that side a little tighter.

D. Tail (at R16, closed body)

Hold the mouse from the side, with the back towards you. The tail is sewn to the middle of the back on R16, on the same line the scrap marks, so it leaves the body high and falls to the table behind.

Tail
Round R16
Sewn at B
  1. Thread the cord's long tail on the needle. That end of the cord carries both loose ends and is the end that gets sewn; the far end is left as it is.
  2. Ladder stitch the cord's end down over about four stitches of the body, taking the needle alternately through the cord and through R16, so the join lies flat rather than standing away from the body.
  3. Bury both ends inside the body.

When it is right, the tail leaves the top of the back, curves down and lies on the table for its whole length. If it stands away from the body, take the seam out and sew it flatter against the fabric.

Finishing

Take out the pins and the scrap of yarn. Roll the mouse gently between your palms to settle the filling, stand it on the table and press the belly flat once more with your hand.

The finished mouse lies along the table on its own belly, nose down at the front, its back rising to a rounded rear, both ears standing forward on the crown and the tail trailing behind it.

Care: hand wash cool, squeeze the water out without wringing, reshape while damp and dry flat away from direct heat.

What is checked

passed

Stitch check: every round's count recomputed from the stitch record

passed

Placement check: every placement checked against the rounds it names

passed

Diagram check: every diagram checked against the same record

2

finished makes from the written pattern

2

photos of finished makes

How patterns are made

Using this pattern

The toys you make from this pattern are yours to keep, give or sell. The pattern itself is for your personal use: please do not share, copy or resell it.

Safety

This pattern uses plastic safety eyes, which are not suitable for toys for children under three. If you would rather have no plastic parts, embroider the eyes instead.

Not for children under three. A handmade toy has not been safety-tested, so sew every part on firmly, and check the seams and stuffing before you give it to a child and every so often after.

Illustrations are generated previews. Your finished piece will differ with yarn, hook, tension and stuffing. © 2026 Anastasia Marchenko